A 3D scanner is the fastest way to get a real object into your slicer: a broken part to reprint, a body to fit a cosplay prop to, a car part to design an accessory around. But scanners differ in detail, range and how they deal with dark or shiny surfaces, so the right choice depends on what you scan.
This guide compares the scanners we supply for 3D printing work — the Shining 3D Einstar 2 and Einstar Rockit, the 3DMakerpro handhelds and the EinScan desktop scanners — and ends with clear picks.
Three questions before you choose
- How big are your parts? Coin- to shoe-sized parts need a fine point distance; car parts and furniture need a wide field of view.
- Are they dark or shiny? Blue-laser scanners capture black plastic and machined metal far better than white-light or infrared scanners, often without spray.
- Do you want a mesh or a CAD model? For replicas and props, a clean mesh is enough. For functional parts that must fit, you will rebuild the scan in CAD — scan accuracy and features such as a scan-to-CAD licence matter more.
The options compared
| Scanner | Type | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Einstar 2 | Blue laser (17 lines) + infrared | Mixed workshop use, small to large parts | Laser HD point distance from 0.05 mm; IR mode for big objects; 420 g, Wi-Fi |
| Einstar Rockit | Crossed blue laser (38 + 7 lines) + infrared | Detailed parts, dark and shiny objects | Laser mode can align on part features without markers; 5 MP colour camera |
| 3DMakerpro Seal | Blue light | Small, very detailed parts (10–300 mm) | 0.01 mm accuracy; miniatures, jewellery, small mechanical parts |
| 3DMakerpro Moose | Blue LED | Medium parts (15–1,500 mm) | 0.03 mm accuracy; good all-rounder for makers |
| 3DMakerpro Toucan | Blue laser + structured light | Small to large parts (15–4,000 mm) | 0.03 mm in laser mode; laser handles dark surfaces |
| EinScan SE V2 | Desktop, white LED + turntable | Small parts, schools, beginners | Single shot ≤0.1 mm; 360° turntable scan in under 45 s |
| EinScan SP V2 | Desktop, white LED + turntable | Small precise parts and reverse engineering | Single shot ≤0.05 mm; includes Solid Edge SHINING 3D Edition |
Handheld or desktop?
A desktop turntable scanner is the easiest way to start: put the part on the turntable, press scan and the software merges each view automatically. It is repeatable and needs little skill, but it is limited to parts that fit on the turntable (up to 200 mm on the SE V2 and SP V2), plus larger parts in fixed mode.
A handheld scanner goes to the object instead. You can scan a seat, a bumper or a person, and the same scanner handles small parts at close range. It takes a little practice to move steadily and keep tracking, and you need a reasonably powerful computer.
Laser, infrared or blue light?
Infrared and white-light scanners are fast and comfortable for large, matt objects and for people. Blue-laser scanners are slower over big areas but much better on black, metallic and reflective parts — exactly the parts makers often need to copy. The Einstar 2 and Einstar Rockit combine both in one device: laser for detail, infrared for speed. The Rockit’s crossed lines and feature alignment make it quicker on detailed parts and reduce the need for markers.
From scan to print
- Export the scan as STL, OBJ or 3MF.
- Repair holes and remove the background or turntable in the scanner software or a mesh tool.
- For replicas and props, scale and print directly. For functional parts, import the mesh into CAD and rebuild clean surfaces before printing.
- Print in the right material — PLA for display models, PETG or ASA for parts that see heat or sunlight, TPU for flexible parts.
Our picks
- Best all-rounder for a maker or workshop: Einstar 2 — laser detail and infrared range in one light, wireless scanner.
- Best for detailed, dark or shiny parts: Einstar Rockit or the 3DMakerpro Toucan.
- Best for very small, fine detail: 3DMakerpro Seal.
- Best first scanner for a school or beginner: EinScan SE V2; choose the EinScan SP V2 if you want higher accuracy and scan-to-CAD software.
- Want to scan without a laptop? See our guide to the Einstar Vega and EinScan Rigil Lite.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best 3D scanner for 3D printing?
For most makers and workshops, a handheld scanner that combines blue laser and infrared — such as the Shining 3D Einstar 2 or Einstar Rockit — covers small detailed parts and large objects. For very small parts, a blue-light scanner such as the 3DMakerpro Seal gives finer detail; for beginners and schools, a desktop turntable scanner such as the EinScan SE V2 is the easiest start.
Can I print a 3D scan directly?
Often yes for replicas and props: export STL or 3MF, repair any holes and print. Parts that must fit other parts are best rebuilt in CAD from the scan first.
Do I need to spray shiny or black parts?
With a blue-laser scanner such as the Einstar 2, Einstar Rockit or 3DMakerpro Toucan in laser mode, dark and shiny parts can often be scanned without spray. Infrared and white-light scanners usually need a light coat of scanning spray on very dark or reflective surfaces.
Eolas Prints is an authorised Shining 3D and 3DMakerpro reseller and ships worldwide from Spain. See all 3D scanners, or tell us what you want to scan and we will recommend one.