Resin 3D Printers

Resin (MSLA) 3D printers cure liquid photopolymer layer by layer with UV light, resolving detail at tens of microns — far finer than any filament printer can reach. That makes them the right tool for jewellery casting masters, dental and medical models, tabletop miniatures and visually flawless prototypes.

Every machine below is supplied and supported by Eolas Prints, a specialist 3D printing supplier in Cantabria, Spain, shipping across Spain and the EU. We stock resin consumables here rather than sourcing them when you need them.

Which resin printer should you choose?

Pick on plate size first, resolution second. Almost everyone over-buys resolution and under-buys build volume.

12K is the practical sweet spot. It delivers the great majority of the visible improvement over FDM for miniatures, figures and prototypes. 16K matters where sub-20 µm precision has functional consequences — jewellery casting masters and dental prosthetics, where a margin line or a stone seat has to be right.

Compare the range

Printer	LCD	Build volume	Speed	Best for
ELEGOO Mars 5	6.6″ 4K	143 × 90 × 150 mm	70 mm/h	First resin printer, education
ELEGOO Mars 5 Ultra	7″ 9K	153 × 78 × 165 mm	150 mm/h	Selling prints at small scale
ELEGOO Saturn 4	10″ 12K	219 × 123 × 220 mm	70 mm/h	Batch work — the value pick
ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra	10″ 12K	219 × 123 × 220 mm	150 mm/h	Daily production — tilt release, heated tank
ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra 16K	10″ 16K	212 × 118 × 220 mm	150 mm/h	Jewellery masters, dental models
ELEGOO Jupiter 2	14″ 16K	302 × 162 × 300 mm	90 mm/h	Large parts, auto resin feed
Prusa SL1S SPEED + CW1S	5.96″ mono	127 × 80 × 150 mm	—	Open-source ecosystem, wash & cure included
Prusa Medical One	SLA	—	—	Dental, biocompatible workflows
Prusa Pro SLX	Industrial MSLA	—	—	Industrial production

Choose by what you make

Jewellery casting masters — Saturn 4 Ultra 16K. Sub-20 µm precision decides whether a stone seats correctly.
Dental & medical models — Saturn 4 Ultra 16K for models and guides; Prusa Medical One where biocompatible, validated workflows are required.
Tabletop miniatures — Saturn 4 or Saturn 4 Ultra. MSLA cures a whole layer at once, so a full plate takes the same time as one figure.
Large props, busts, helmets — Jupiter 2. Print whole instead of sectioning and gluing.
Starting out — Mars 5. Desk-sized, straightforward, open materials.

You will also need a wash & cure station

A resin printer on its own is an incomplete system. Every finished part must be washed in IPA to remove uncured resin, then UV-cured to reach full hardness and dimensional stability. Budget for this from the start — it is not an optional upgrade.

Running costs to plan for

On any MSLA machine the release film (ACF/FEP/PFA), masking LCD, build plate and resin tank are wear parts with finite lives. Factor replacements into your operating budget alongside resin itself. We hold consumables in Spain so a worn film does not stop production for a fortnight.

Resin safety — read before you buy

Uncured photopolymer resin is a skin and eye irritant. Work in a ventilated space, wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when handling liquid resin, wash parts in IPA, and cure fully before handling bare-handed. Dispose of waste resin and used IPA as chemical waste — never down the drain. Keep resin and solvents away from children and pets. If resin is not compatible with your workspace, an FDM printer may be the better choice.

Frequently asked questions

What is an MSLA resin 3D printer?

An MSLA (Masked Stereolithography) printer uses an LCD panel to mask UV light and cure an entire layer of liquid photopolymer resin at once. Because the whole layer cures simultaneously, print time depends on height rather than on how many parts are on the plate — which is why resin suits small-batch production.

Is resin better than FDM?

Neither is better — they solve different problems. Resin resolves finer detail and smoother surfaces, so it wins for miniatures, jewellery and dental models. FDM wins on part size, mechanical strength, material range and convenience, with no washing, curing or chemical handling. Many workshops run both.

Do I need 16K, or is 12K enough?

For tabletop miniatures, display figures and most prototyping, 12K is the practical sweet spot and delivers the great majority of the visible gain. 16K is worth the difference for jewellery casting masters and dental prosthetics, where sub-20 µm precision has functional rather than cosmetic consequences.

What is tilt release and does it matter?

Tilt release tilts the resin tank to separate each cured layer from the film, instead of pulling the model straight up off it. This dramatically reduces peel force, which means fewer failed prints on tall or delicate models and considerably faster layer cycles. On machines that print daily it is the single most useful mechanical upgrade.

Do I need a wash and cure station?

Yes. Every resin part must be washed in isopropyl alcohol to remove uncured resin and then UV-cured to reach full hardness and dimensional stability. Skipping either step leaves parts tacky, weak and dimensionally unreliable. Treat the wash and cure station as part of the printer, not an accessory.

Can I use any brand of resin?

On the ELEGOO machines listed here, yes — they are open systems that accept any 405 nm photopolymer resin, with no proprietary cartridges or consumable lock-in. Always match exposure settings to the specific resin you use.

What are the ongoing costs of a resin printer?

Resin itself, plus wear parts: the release film, the masking LCD, the build plate and the resin tank all have finite lives on any MSLA machine. Isopropyl alcohol for washing is a recurring cost, and used IPA and waste resin must be disposed of as chemical waste.