Advanced 3D Printing

A desktop UV printer prints full-colour, 3D-textured graphics straight onto acrylic, wood, glass, metal and more. Here's what UV printing is, what you can make and sell, how it differs from a UV laser, and a look at the xTool O1 Omni — available to pre-order now.

Almost every 3D printing problem has a known cause and a reliable fix. We've put together a complete set of practical guides covering the issues makers actually run into — from a first print that won't stick, to dialling in a perfect filament profile. This page is the index: find your symptom, jump to the guide, fix the problem. Bookmark it. Start Here: New to 3D Printing If you're just getting started, begin with the fundamentals and work outward as problems come up. PLA Settings & Your First Print — the complete beginner's guide: settings, a pre-print checklist, and how to read your first layer. Best Print Settings for PETG, TPU & ASA — when you're ready to move beyond PLA. Bed Adhesion & First-Layer Problems The most common failure of all — and the foundation of every successful print. First Layer Not Sticking? Fix Bed Adhesion — Z-offset, levelling, bed temperature, cleaning, adhesives, and brims. Surface & Quality Defects Prints that stick but don't look right — strings, blobs, gaps, ripples. Fix Stringing & Oozing — those wispy threads between parts. Under-Extrusion — gaps, thin walls, and weak layers. Over-Extrusion, Blobs & Zits — rough, swollen, oversized prints. Layer Shifting & Ghosting — prints that jump sideways, or faint ripples near corners. Warping & Engineering Materials The challenges specific to ABS, ASA, and other high-shrinkage materials. How to Stop Warping (ABS & ASA) — curling corners and cracked layers, and how to prevent them. Calibration: From Good to Great Once your prints are reliable, calibration is what makes them excellent. These tests dial in your printer and filament. Orca Slicer & Orca-Flashforge Calibration — the full sequence: temperature, flow, pressure advance, retraction. Temperature Tower — find your filament's ideal temperature. Flow Test — get extrusion amount and dimensions accurate. Retraction Test — eliminate stringing at the source. Extruder Calibration — confirm your extruder pushes the right amount. Find Your Problem Fast What you're seeing Go to Print won't stick / first layer is a mess Bed adhesion Wispy threads between parts Stringing Gaps, thin or weak walls Under-extrusion Blobs, zits, oversized parts Over-extrusion Print jumped sideways / surface ripples Layer shifting & ghosting Corners curling up / cracking (ABS, ASA) Warping Prints OK but want them perfect Calibration Just getting started PLA & first print The Common Thread: Good Filament You'll notice a theme across these guides: a lot of "random" problems trace back to filament — damp, brittle, or inconsistent in diameter. Consistent filament removes those variables so the settings you calibrate actually hold. Our PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, and ASA are made in Spain to tight ISO/REACH tolerances and sealed dry. Pair good material with the guides above and most problems simply don't appear. Still Stuck? If you've worked through the relevant guide and a problem persists, get in touch with your printer, material, and a photo of the issue — we're happy to help troubleshoot. And if you're starting to think the real fix is a better-suited printer, browse our Flashforge, Prusa, and Bambu Lab ranges or ask us for a recommendation.

PLA is where almost everyone starts 3D printing, and for good reason: it's the easiest filament to print, needs no enclosure, barely warps, and is forgiving of mistakes. If you've just unboxed a printer, this guide gets you from spool to successful first print — the right settings, what to do before you press print, and how to read the result. Why Start With PLA PLA (polylactic acid) prints at low temperatures, sticks easily, doesn't smell much, and produces crisp detail. It's the best material to learn on because it removes most of the variables that make other filaments tricky — no warping battles, no enclosure needed, no fumes to manage. Master PLA first, then step up to PETG, TPU, or ASA once you're comfortable (see our guide for those materials). PLA Print Settings Setting Starting value Nozzle temperature 200–215 °C Bed temperature 50–60 °C Print speed 50–100 mm/s (slower while learning) Cooling fan 100% (after first layer) Retraction (direct drive) 1–2 mm Retraction (Bowden) 4–6 mm First layer speed 20–25 mm/s (slow = better adhesion) Enclosure Not needed These are reliable starting points. Every printer and spool is a little different, so once you've got a successful print you can fine-tune with a temperature tower. Before You Press Print: A Checklist Level the bed / set Z-offset. The single most important step. The nozzle should be the right distance from the bed so the first layer squishes slightly. Most printers have an automatic or guided routine — run it. Clean the bed. Wipe with isopropyl alcohol. Finger grease is the most common reason a first print won't stick. Check the filament is seated. Make sure it's loaded, gripped by the extruder, and the spool turns freely without tangles. Use the right slicer profile. Pick your printer's PLA profile in your slicer (Orca, Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, etc.). Don't print an unknown profile. Start with something small. A calibration cube or a small model prints fast and tells you a lot before you commit hours to a big one. Watch the First Layer The first layer makes or breaks a print, so stay and watch it. A good first layer looks like flat, even ribbons fused side by side, with no gaps and no scraping. If the lines are round and loose, the nozzle is too high; if they're squashed and torn, it's too low. Stop and adjust the Z-offset rather than letting a bad first layer ruin the whole print. Our first-layer and bed-adhesion guide covers this in depth. Your First Print Went Wrong? Quick Fixes Problem Likely cause Guide Won't stick to the bed Z-offset, dirty bed, cold bed Bed adhesion Wispy threads between parts Stringing Fix stringing Gaps, thin or weak walls Under-extrusion Under-extrusion Blobs, rough or oversized Over-extrusion Over-extrusion Print jumped sideways / ripples Layer shift / ghosting Layer shifting When You're Ready to Dial It In Once you've got reliable prints, calibration takes them from good to great. The full sequence — temperature, flow, pressure advance, retraction — is in our Orca Slicer calibration guide, and you can confirm your extruder is accurate with the extruder calibration guide. Choosing Your First PLA Beginner frustration is often really bad filament — damp, brittle, or inconsistent in diameter. Our PLA filament is made in Spain to a tight ±0.05 mm tolerance and sealed dry, so it behaves predictably while you're still learning. For a low-sheen finish that hides layer lines, try our Matte PLA, and browse the full filament range as you expand. New to all this and not sure what to buy? Ask us — we're happy to point beginners in the right direction.

If your print won't stick to the bed, lifts at the corners, or the first layer comes out as a tangle of loose lines, you're dealing with the most common 3D printing failure of all — and the good news is the first layer is also the easiest thing to get consistently right once you understand it. The first layer is the foundation: get it perfect and most prints succeed. Here's how to diagnose and fix bed-adhesion problems for good. The Golden Rule: It's Almost Always the Z-Offset Before anything else: the distance between nozzle and bed (the Z-offset, or 'first layer height') is the single biggest factor. Too high and the filament is laid down as round, loose strands that don't bond to the bed or each other. Too low and the nozzle scrapes, starves the flow, or refuses to extrude. A perfect first layer is slightly squished — the lines should be flat-topped and fused side to side, like neat ribbon, not round spaghetti. Most adhesion problems disappear the moment the Z-offset is right. Diagnose by Symptom What you see Most likely cause Fix Lines round and not touching; print pops off Nozzle too high Lower Z-offset Nozzle scrapes, gaps, no extrusion Nozzle too low Raise Z-offset Corners curl up mid-print Warping (cooling/temperature) Enclosure, brim, no draughts One area sticks, another doesn't Bed not level / not trammed Re-level / auto bed level Nothing sticks anywhere Dirty bed or wrong temp Clean bed, raise bed temp Sticks too well, tears the sheet Over-adhesion (often PETG) Release agent, raise nozzle slightly The Fixes, in Order 1. Clean the Bed Fingerprints leave grease, and grease kills adhesion. Wash a PEI or glass bed with warm water and dish soap, or wipe with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Do this regularly — it's the cheapest, most effective fix, and handling the plate barehanded between prints is the most common reason adhesion suddenly fails. 2. Level the Bed / Set Z-Offset Run your printer's bed-levelling routine (manual tramming or automatic mesh levelling). Then fine-tune the Z-offset on a first-layer test print or a 'first layer patch', adjusting live until the lines look flat and fused. This is the step that fixes most problems. 3. Get the Bed Temperature Right Each material needs a minimum bed temperature to bond: PLA around 60 °C, PETG 70–90 °C, ASA/ABS 90–110 °C. Too cool and even a clean, level bed won't hold. See our material settings guide for the full ranges. 4. Use an Adhesion Aid A purpose-made adhesive removes adhesion as a variable entirely. Magigoo Original bonds when hot and releases when cool — strong hold during printing, easy removal after, and it doubles as a release barrier that stops sticky PETG from tearing the sheet. For flexible filaments, Magigoo Pro Flex is formulated for TPU and similar materials. 5. Add a Brim or Raft in the Slicer A brim (a flat skirt attached to the model's edge) adds surface area and fights corner-lifting — ideal for tall or small-footprint parts. A raft (a full base layer under the model) helps on stubborn warpers or uneven beds, at the cost of some filament and a rougher underside. 6. Stop Warping at the Source For ABS and ASA, corner-lifting is really a cooling problem: the plastic shrinks as it cools unevenly. The fix is environmental — an enclosure to hold chamber heat, no draughts from open windows or AC, and minimal part cooling. This is exactly why enclosed printers like the Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro handle these materials so much more reliably. Surface Matters Too Different build surfaces suit different materials: textured PEI is forgiving and grippy for PLA/PETG; smooth PEI gives glassy bottoms but can over-grip PETG; glass with adhesive is great for ABS/ASA. If you're constantly fighting one material on one surface, switching surfaces (or adding a release agent) is often the real fix. Consistent Filament, Consistent First Layers Inconsistent filament diameter shows up first in the first layer. Our filament is made in Spain to tight ISO/REACH diameter tolerances, so once your Z-offset and bed temp are dialled in, your first layers stay reliable spool after spool. Still can't get that first layer down? Tell us your printer, surface, and material and we'll help.

The A1 and A2L are Bambu Lab's two open-frame printers — bed-slinger machines without an enclosure, built for PLA, PETG, and TPU. They look similar in spirit but serve different needs. The A2L is not simply a bigger A1; it is a newer machine with a meaningfully upgraded motion and extrusion system, plus a feature the A1 does not have at all. Here is how to choose. The Core Difference: Size and Generation The A1 launched in late 2023 with a 256×256×256 mm build volume. The A2L arrived in June 2026 with a 330×320×325 mm build volume — 105% larger — and a set of internal upgrades that reflect two and a half years of engineering progress. The A2L is the large-format, second-generation A-series machine the community had been asking for. Side by Side Bambu Lab A1 Bambu Lab A2L Build volume 256×256×256 mm 330×320×325 mm Max nozzle temp 300°C 300°C Max bed temp 100°C 80°C Extruder Direct drive PMSM closed-loop servo Vibration control Input shaping Adaptive vibration compensation Max speed 500 mm/s Up to 1000 mm/s Multi-colour AMS Lite (up to 4) AMS Lite (up to 4) Cutting / pen modules No Yes (optional) Materials PLA, PETG, TPU PLA, PETG, TPU Why the A2L's Bed Temperature Is Lower One spec looks like a downgrade: the A2L's bed maxes at 80°C versus the A1's 100°C. This is deliberate. The A2L's bed is much larger, and heating that area to 100°C would draw enough power to strain a typical home electrical circuit. Bambu capped it at 80°C for energy efficiency and safety. Since both machines are designed for PLA, PETG, and TPU — none of which need a bed above 80°C — this does not limit their intended use. Neither machine is suitable for ABS or ASA regardless; that requires an enclosure. The A2L's Unique Trick: Cutting and Drawing The A2L has a mounting point for optional modules that no other Bambu printer offers. The Blade Cutting Upgrade Kit adds a cutting module and pen module, turning the A2L into a vinyl cutter and plotter. It cuts stickers, paper, vinyl, and thin leather, and draws with a pen — Cricut-style craft work on a machine that also 3D prints. For a craft room or small personalisation business, this dual capability is genuinely useful. Note the A2L does not support laser modules, due to safety considerations with its open frame. The Real-World Upgrades Beyond size, the A2L's PMSM closed-loop servo extruder monitors extrusion in real time and detects problems before they ruin a print — technology shared with the X2D. Its adaptive vibration compensation actively corrects ringing and ghosting as a print grows taller, which matters more on a large bed-slinger where tall prints wobble more. These are real quality improvements, not just marketing. Which Should You Buy? Choose the A1 if: you are new to 3D printing, you mostly print single-colour or multi-colour PLA and PETG at normal sizes, and you want the most affordable, proven entry into the Bambu ecosystem. It remains an excellent machine. Choose the A2L if: you need the larger build volume for cosplay, large decor, or one-piece prints; you want the cleaner tall-print quality from adaptive vibration compensation; or the cutting and pen modules appeal to your craft or personalisation work. Both are PLA/PETG/TPU machines. If you need to print ABS, ASA, or engineering materials, neither is the right choice — look at the P2S (enclosed) or the active-chamber machines instead. Available from Eolas Prints Eolas Prints sells genuine, 100% original Bambu Lab printers, shipped from Cantabria, Spain. Both the A1 and A2L are in stock and ship across Europe with EU warranty. Pricing is on each product page. Contact us if you would like help deciding.