Getting Started with 3D Printing
Article author:
Eolas PrintsArticle published at:
June 17, 2026
PLA is where almost everyone starts 3D printing, and for good reason: it's the easiest filament to print, needs no enclosure, barely warps, and is forgiving of mistakes. If you've just unboxed a printer, this guide gets you from spool to successful first print — the right settings, what to do before you press print, and how to read the result.
Why Start With PLA
PLA (polylactic acid) prints at low temperatures, sticks easily, doesn't smell much, and produces crisp detail. It's the best material to learn on because it removes most of the variables that make other filaments tricky — no warping battles, no enclosure needed, no fumes to manage. Master PLA first, then step up to PETG, TPU, or ASA once you're comfortable (see our guide for those materials).
PLA Print Settings
| Setting | Starting value |
|---|---|
| Nozzle temperature | 200–215 °C |
| Bed temperature | 50–60 °C |
| Print speed | 50–100 mm/s (slower while learning) |
| Cooling fan | 100% (after first layer) |
| Retraction (direct drive) | 1–2 mm |
| Retraction (Bowden) | 4–6 mm |
| First layer speed | 20–25 mm/s (slow = better adhesion) |
| Enclosure | Not needed |
These are reliable starting points. Every printer and spool is a little different, so once you've got a successful print you can fine-tune with a temperature tower.
Before You Press Print: A Checklist
- Level the bed / set Z-offset. The single most important step. The nozzle should be the right distance from the bed so the first layer squishes slightly. Most printers have an automatic or guided routine — run it.
- Clean the bed. Wipe with isopropyl alcohol. Finger grease is the most common reason a first print won't stick.
- Check the filament is seated. Make sure it's loaded, gripped by the extruder, and the spool turns freely without tangles.
- Use the right slicer profile. Pick your printer's PLA profile in your slicer (Orca, Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, etc.). Don't print an unknown profile.
- Start with something small. A calibration cube or a small model prints fast and tells you a lot before you commit hours to a big one.
Watch the First Layer
The first layer makes or breaks a print, so stay and watch it. A good first layer looks like flat, even ribbons fused side by side, with no gaps and no scraping. If the lines are round and loose, the nozzle is too high; if they're squashed and torn, it's too low. Stop and adjust the Z-offset rather than letting a bad first layer ruin the whole print. Our first-layer and bed-adhesion guide covers this in depth.
Your First Print Went Wrong? Quick Fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Guide |
|---|---|---|
| Won't stick to the bed | Z-offset, dirty bed, cold bed | Bed adhesion |
| Wispy threads between parts | Stringing | Fix stringing |
| Gaps, thin or weak walls | Under-extrusion | Under-extrusion |
| Blobs, rough or oversized | Over-extrusion | Over-extrusion |
| Print jumped sideways / ripples | Layer shift / ghosting | Layer shifting |
When You're Ready to Dial It In
Once you've got reliable prints, calibration takes them from good to great. The full sequence — temperature, flow, pressure advance, retraction — is in our Orca Slicer calibration guide, and you can confirm your extruder is accurate with the extruder calibration guide.
Choosing Your First PLA
Beginner frustration is often really bad filament — damp, brittle, or inconsistent in diameter. Our PLA filament is made in Spain to a tight ±0.05 mm tolerance and sealed dry, so it behaves predictably while you're still learning. For a low-sheen finish that hides layer lines, try our Matte PLA, and browse the full filament range as you expand. New to all this and not sure what to buy? Ask us — we're happy to point beginners in the right direction.